Few soups manage to be so frugal and satisfying as the one you make a few onions and a bit of stock. With cheese toasts floating in its midst it takes on a certain richness suited to an autumn or winter day, but still manages to retain its pleasing simplicity. We tend to eat this as a meal in itself rather than as a starter.
 
Serves 4
 
a good thick slice of butter
large Spanish onions – 3, peeled and sliced
bay leaves - 2
flour – 2 tablespoons
white wine – 250mls
chicken or vegetable stock – 1 litre
Madeira 3-4 tablespoons
sourdough bread – 8 small slices
Gruyere, thinly sliced – 75g
 
Melt the butter in a heavy-based saucepan, add the sliced onions and the bay leaves and let them cook, without colour, over a medium heat. You want them to be soft and slightly sticky, which will take a good 25 minutes. Don’t hurry them. When they are ready, stir in the flour, cook for a minute or two then pour in the white wine and then the stock, bringing it to the boil. Season with salt and coarsely ground black pepper. Turn the heat down so that the soup simmers merrily, and leave it, with all but an occasional stir for a good 30-40 minutes. Add the Madeira and continue simmering for 5 -10 minutes.

 

Toast the bread on one side then cover the other with the sliced Gruyere. Check the soup for seasoning then spoon into ovenproof bowls. Float the slices of bread on top and place under the grill for a couple of minutes till the cheese has melted.